Showing posts with label Crochet Corner. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Crochet Corner. Show all posts

Crochet Corner- Swatches that Lie!

by : MarinadeDesigns
Not long ago there was a discussion in my Ravelry group (Crochet Insider) about swatching or not swatching before a project.  These days, just about every dedicated crocheter knows they are supposed to do a swatch first, especially when making garments, but often they still don't.  I have to admit that I  ranted in rhyme about it on a thread, as follows:

Crocheters, can you please get on the right page
You can’t make it work without getting gauge.
Don’t be lazy, it’s a good thing to do,
Practice the stitch before you make a boo boo.
You have the nerve to complain about fit
But you can’t be bothered to first swatch it?
It’s an insult to people who work hard and long
When you post here on rav and say it’s all wrong.

OK, maybe I went overboard here, but my group is very supportive.  This touched off a discussion about why people don't swatch, and one of the group responded with a rhyme of her own:

Making a gauge swatch is certainly wise.
But what do you do if the swatch just lies?
To get the gauge that the pattern advises,
I might need to go down three hook sizes.
If I do manage to get the width right,
I can’t get the row gauge, try as I might.
Then washing and blocking and hanging -- oh heck,
I end up crocheting the pattern “on spec.”
So it’s sometimes less frustrating just to plunge in
And use trial and error - it’s not such a sin.
But rather than match the designer’s own hand,
I wish there were a formula we could all understand
For converting the gauge to any yarn we want
So we could all be flexible, and save Dora the rant. (!)

Thus was I educated by my fans that the reasons for not swatching go beyond laziness, and are worth discussing.

Several folks mentioned how difficult it is to match gauge in crochet.  My theory is that it's actually harder than in knitting;  there are many small maneuvers in each crochet stitch, and therefore more ways for stitches to vary in size.  People often find that even if they match stitch gauge, they can't get row gauge.  Even more problematic, once you make a larger piece of crochet fabric, the weight of the fabric often causes gauge to change, and next thing you know, you're calling the swatch  a liar!

Let's look at the row gauge issue first:  the problem people usually have is that row gauge is shorter than the designer's.  The height of stitches is controlled by how much you lift the first loop that is drawn through the stitch -- in a single crochet, right after inserting your hook under the top loops; in taller stitches, there are yarn overs first, but it's still the first loop after inserting your hook in the stitch you're working into. Even if you're working around a post or elsewhere, it's still that first loop that comes through the stitch, and how high you draw it up, that determines the height of the stitch.  If you generally work very tightly, you'll be amazed how loosening up right at that spot will not only help you achieve row gauge, but will open up your stitches, make a prettier surface, and improve drape.

OK, so you've got row gauge licked, but you still may face the issue of the swatch that lies -- in other words, gauge changes when going from swatch to actual item. This impacts on my own design process quite a bit.  I start out on a design with a gauge swatch, and use it to compute how many stitches and rows I'll need for the design.  But very often, as I work the project, I redo all those counts in light of the somewhat different gauge I'm getting now that I'm actually making the project.  So my original swatch is more like a "draft" gauge, not the real thing. 

Where does this leave the poor crocheter though?  Even if they get gauge on their swatch,  what if it doesn't carry over into the item itself?

There is a solution, and that's what I want to share today.  This is applicable only when you are close to gauge, perhaps one or two stitches more or less per 4", or one row more or less.  DO make a gauge swatch and see if you can get close to the designer's gauge.  Then, start making the piece, and after you've got several inches of work, measure it again for gauge. This is your REAL gauge. Finally, based on the dimensions of the item you're making, adjust the stitch and row counts so that you can make the item at your gauge, not the designer's. 

Here's an example:  say you are making a sweater, starting with the back piece at the bottom.  If your gauge is a little larger than the designer's, your piece might be coming out an inch wider than you thought.  At the bottom of a sweater, an inch is no big deal, so there's no need to start again.  But you do want to account for this difference in gauge in areas where the garment needs to be more fitted, such as at the shoulders, neck, or sleeves. 

Take a look at the sweater schematic and see how many inches it should be across the shoulders.  Let's say the desired width there is 15".  On your stitched up back piece -  how many stitches are in 15"?  You can figure it out using math, but hey, why not just count them on your work? Just lay the piece down flat with a ruler and count stitches and rows. Easier, right? 

Now, to get the stitch count right for the shoulders, when you get to the point in the sweater where stitches are decreased for the shoulders -- this usually occurs at the armhole -- adjust the decreases so you end up with the correct stitch count for your gauge.  You can also count the number of stitches and rows you'll need for the correct dimensions at any point in your sweater and adjust the pattern accordingly.

This is all easier than many people think, trust me.  On the other hand, I have found that many sweater fit problems are less about gauge, and more about people not knowing their measurements.  But that's for another post on another day!

 Happy Crocheting!
Dora


Dora Ohrenstein is an author, designer and writer whose most recent book is Custom Crocheted Sweaters: Make Garments that Really Fit.  Her website Crochetinsider.com  is a great source for articles, interviews and techniques, and where she teaches online crochet classes.


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Dora's Crochet Corner...and the Capitol Knits Giveaway Winner!

by : MarinadeDesigns
Antique Crochet Sampler,
date Unknown

Are you curious about how old crochet is, when it started, and how it spread throughout the world?  If so, you may be disappointed to learn that there is very little reliable information available on these topics.  Why?  Quite simply, because crochet has not been considered a worthy topic of study for scholars. The history of knitting has fared only slightly better. 

Antique Crochet Sampler,
date Unknown
A bibliography of crochet studies doesn't exist, beyond actual pattern books published in Western Europe in the 19th century, beginning in the 1840s.  You can find some of these, available for free download, at www.antiquepatternlibrary.com.  While they are undoubtedly a great resource, they shed light only on crochet from a limited era, and one culture.  

Here to rectify the situation, on behalf of both crochet and knitting, is Karen  Kendrick-Hands, who is chairing a symposium this November, with the purpose of bringing together both experts and enthusiasts. There will be lectures and panels to explore and brainstorm about the possibility of establishing a museum and research center devoted to knitting and crochet history.

"New Stitches" from Ladies
Home Journal, 1906
Kendrick-Hands received a grant from TNNA's Yarn Group to support the symposium, which is also being co-hosted by the Wisconsin Historical Society.  I met Karen last week at a conference of the Textile Society of America in Washington D.C.  She explained to me the immensity of the task of creating such an institution, and also its urgency.  A Knitting and Crochet Heritage Museum will greatly enhance the perception of these needle arts, raising them to the status of legitimate topics of study.  Further, it can be an instrument that assists in evaluating the many neglected and mislabeled heirlooms that currently lurk in many American museums.

Slipped Stitches from
Tajikistan, date Unknown
Just imagine what it would be like if a website existed with examples of historical crochet not only from Western Europe and the US, but from Turkey, Peru, China, Japan, and all the other places where crochet is done.  Imagine as well that each object had been analyzed by experts, and includes a description of the materials used, the techniques and style of the crochet, and its date.  Perhaps there could also be papers exploring the relationships between crocheted objects, showing how techniques have been adapted and changed as they move through different regions and cultures.  And even more exciting, imagine a physical space, somewhere in the US, housing an awesome a collection of beautiful, historic, crocheted objects of craft and art.

Italian Motif book,
Early 20th Century
My favorite fantasy of this kind:  a sweet lady comes to Antiques Roadshow with a lovely blanket that's been in her family for generations.  The appraiser studies it closely, realized it is crochet, and tells her that due to the fine work and condition of the piece, it's worth, far from the usual $10 or 20 such an object might fetch at a flea market, is ten times that amount!  

Think this could never happen?  Have you seen appraisals of 18th century embroidery on that program? Often they are evaluated at many thousands of dollars, because embroidery is a highly respected craft with a well documented history. That makes it collectible, which in turn gives it monetary value.  It's that simple folks!  So, if you care and want to be involved, consider attending the conference, which takes place November 8 - 10, 2012 in Madison Wisconsin. Check out these links for further information.
http://www.regonline.com/knittingheritagemuseumaworkinprogress
http://knittingheritagemuseum.wordpress.com

If you'd like to read more about the history of crochet, here are some links to articles at Crochet insider.
http://crochetinsider.com/article/ancient-fibers
http://crochetinsider.com/article/unkown-history-italian-irish-crochet-lace-0
http://crochetinsider.com/article/carpet-jourabs

Thanks so much for reading and happy crocheting!
Dora 

PS. Courtesy of Random.org, the winner of Capitol Knits by Tanis Gray is: 

 Commenter #15- Debby, who said, "The Lincoln cardi and the Constitution Hall Scarf would be my first choices. The shawls are gorgeous too and I'd probably get to those next. Thanks for the chance to win this wonderful book."

 Debby, please shoot me an e-mail with your shipping address and I'll pop the book in the mail to you right away! It's Kristen (at) jimmybeanswool (dot) com. 

 Thanks so much to everyone who commented!


-Kristen
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Dora's Crochet Corner- Etsy is Inspirational!

by : MarinadeDesigns
Where do you go for crochet inspiration?  I love the fact that there are so many places on the internet to see great designs.  I find Etsy to be a great source, and often browse there to see what people are making and selling, and what's trending in crochet.  But even more than that, I look for crochet artisans whose work has something really special about it, something I can aspire to or learn from.  I find this most often at Etsy shops where people are selling finished pieces rather than patterns.  Some are quite affordable too -- especially if I compare their prices to things I might buy in New York which are not even handmade. Today I want to share some of my favorite Etsy shops, with artists who are doing work I consider noteworthy.

Before I launch in, however, a few tips for those who haven't explored Etsy much. It's very easy to use.  Start at the "Shop Home" where you can browse through the artisan's offerings, or select categories listed on the left side of the page. If there isn't much in the shop, click where it shows the number of sales the shop has made and you will see more samples of the work.  It's also easy to communicate with shop owners via the Contact button, and I've had excellent luck talking to people from all over the world -- very cool!

If you start at the Etsy home page (etsy.com), you can browse under just plain old crochet (and get literally hundreds of thousands of items) or narrow your search down, or sort it -- I actually sorted by highest price first to see what the high end stuff was like.  So, here are some of the treasures I found:

One of my top favorites is a shop called "Lilthist."  Here's a link:

http://www.etsy.com/shop/lilithist?ref=seller_info

The artist is from Turkey and everything she does is truly stunning, beautifully made, and very fashionable. For example, don't you just love this exquisite shawl made with Solomon's Knot?! 



Or this neck piece using Crocodile Stitch?



Exquisite! I might even treat myself to a present from Lilthist some time soon.

Another super talented lady, from Israel, Lucy Levintovich, can be found at:

http://www.etsy.com/shop/levintovich

Her style is freeform, and her pieces are fashions statements, some very colorful, others in neutral tones.  There are a great variety of things here, unlike some Etsy shops where the same item is featured in a gazillion colors. Here are two of my faves. 


A different kind of shop I appreciate is Rachel's Scraps:
 
http://www.etsy.com/shop/rachaelsscraps

Now here's a woman who understands the value of vintage doilies! She reworks them to appeal to the modern eye.  If they are damaged, she cuts them down and finishes them so they won't rip, then dyes them vibrant color.  Such fun! 


 Bead crochet jewelry is the specialty at the shop of Doris Chi, from Taiwan.

http://www.etsy.com/shop/dorischi4229

These exquisite pieces are inspired by Irish crochet, as you can see in the first selection here.  Irish crochet is gorgeous on its own, and with beads added -- well, it's remarkable, and so expertly done!   



 A very original designer is Kristina Lazar, who lives in California:

http://www.etsy.com/shop/TranscendentBird?page=1

I love the playful, even kooky look of her work, and how she incorporates crochet pieces within it.
Some include doilies and her own crochet.  Even the photos show her great sense of style! 


 I leave you with the work of a textile artist, Karine Aber,  whose work is in the category of mind-blowing. 

http://www.etsy.com/shop/KarArt2010

Karine incorporates numerous needle techniques in her pieces, and they belong in a museum -- perhaps some of her work is!  Can anyone discredit crochet after seeing this?  Thanks Karine for showing us the true potential of the needle arts.



This is only a smattering of lovely shops on Etsy, but I hope it gets you exploring further. Remember too that there is a lot more hand made work besides crochet.  In fact, I'd be thrilled if readers post here about their own finds!  How about it folks?

Happy crocheting!
Dora

Dora Ohrenstein is an author, designer and writer whose most recent book is Custom Crocheted Sweaters: Make Garments that Really Fit.  Her website Crochetinsider.com  is a great source for articles, interviews and techniques, and where she teaches online crochet classes.


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Dora's Crochet Corner- How to Successfully Substitute Yarn.

by : MarinadeDesigns
The following it our 4th installation of the Crochet Corner by Dora Ohrenstein of www.crochetinsider.com. Enjoy!

Say you've found the perfect crochet project, but can't find the yarn, or feel it's beyond your budget.  How do you know what yarn to use instead?  Substituting yarns can be scary!  Today I'd like to share some information to keep in mind when confronted with this situation.

Brown Sheep Burlyspun
a Super bulky Single Ply
When you decide on a project, first take a good look at what it is that attracts you to it. Is the shape, form, color, stitch pattern?  If it's a garment, notice the way the fabric drapes on the model -- is it falling in fluid folds around the body, or does it have more structure? This is a topic I delved into on my last post (May25).  Next, look at the description of the yarn used -- what is the weight of the yarn, and what fibers are in it.

CYCA has developed standards for yarn weights, ranging from the finest lace weight yarns to bulkies and even super bulkies. Among the terms widely used in the U.S. are:
lace, fingering, sock, sport, DK, light worsted, worsted, Aran weight, bulky, chunky, super bulky, super chunky, etc.

Debbie Bliss Angel, a
Mohair & Silk Blend
These terms can be used as a guide, but will only take you so far, for numerous reasons.  Firstly, no category is strictly defined, so, for example, whether a yarn is called worsted, light worsted or DK is a decision the yarn company makes.  One company's sport might be another's DK!  I'm sure there are reasons behind these decisions, but it means the consumer needs to know more than just the category to make a good choice when substituting one yarn for another.  Clearly, it will be hard to duplicate the gauge of a pattern if you're using a different weight of yarn.  Or, if your yarn is heavier than what is used in the original, you might be able to get gauge but the fabric will be too dense and stiff.

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino
a DK weight with a tight ply. 
Another factor that affects crochet fabric is the spin and structure of a yarn.  Plied yarns, for example, can be twisted very tightly, or less so.  You can often tell by looking at the strand carefully:  if the plies are running at a sharp angle, almost perpendicular to the strand of yarn, then the yarn is tightly spun and will have a lot of bounce, and strong stitch definition.  If the plies are almost parallel to the strand itself, it's loosely spun and will be softer, smoother, with stitches that are less well-defined. 

Rowan Lima- a Chainette yarn.
But how does that affect the project?  Some crochet stitches need very strong definition to be legible to the eye.  If what you like about a particular design is the way stitches pop, then you will want to substitute a yarn that yields similar results.  Other patterns look better with a softer finish:  one of my lease favorite things in crochet is the backs of tall stitches.  But if the yarn is less defined -- as in a fuzzy mohair -- it doesn't bother me at all.

Manos Maxima-
A Single Ply Merino Wool
Some yarns are not plied at all - they are called singles and are very smooth, but have some drawbacks:  they are more likely to pill over time.  Another type of manufacturing process is called "chainette", where the surface of the yarn looks like a very fine knitted tube.  I particularly like these for crochet, because they are light and lofty.  A large piece made of chainette yarn will weigh much less than the same piece made with plied yarn.

 Naturally, the fibers used in a yarn have great impact on how the finished fabric looks, acts, and feels as well.  If the pattern you're making has a high content of silk, a lustrous, very fluid fiber, it will be completely different if made with cotton, which is much stiffer and may not have the same sheen. 

Blue Sky Alpacas Skinny Cotton-
100% Cotton
Please don't be discouraged by all these factors though!  What I've learned over time is that experience teaches a lot.  I recommend that crocheters try all sorts of different yarns. There are only so many types of fibers and spins, and as you work with more of them, your judgement on how to use them improves. 

Cascade Venezia Sport- Wool & Silk
The best way to know if your substitute yarn will work for a pattern is, of course, to make a swatch.  Can you get the pattern's gauge with this yarn? How does the fabric look and feel?  Is the stitch pattern clear?  I've often heard that people don't like to swatch, and yet it's crucial to success.  Just as a fine chef tastes ingredients before making a meal, or a painter mixes colors before setting brush to canvas, the preparation for a project is your swatch. 

I'd love to see comments and/or questions here about your personal experiences with substituting yarns.


Dora


PS. We'd love to announce the winner of the Knit Red book from Tuesday's post! Thanks to Random.org choosing a random number for us, the winner is: Commenter #1- Janet who said: 


"I love Kristen's red-heart-lace bag - adorable!"


Janet, please e-mail us at kristen@jimmybeanswool.com to claim your book!


Thanks so much to everyone who commented and for supporting Stitch Red and Knit Red!

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Crochet Corner with Dora Ohrenstein!

by : MarinadeDesigns
I love the individualism and creativity that characterize the crochet community. The crocheters I meet are often self-taught, curious folk seeking creative adventures.   When you embark on an adventure, I believe, it's smart to be equipped with as much knowledge as possible.

Ethereal Shawl
 by Dora Ohrenstein
In my first post I spoke about how lovely crochet can be with finer yarns.  Of course, it really depends on what project you intend to make.  For some items, such as a winter hat, scarf, or mitts, a sturdy, structured fabric is best.  These are great projects for using worsted or bulkier yarns.  With these yarns, you can make a closed fabric, either with plain stitches like single or half double crochet, or a pattern stitch that creates a closed fabric, and be sure that the wearer will have protection against the cold. You can add even more warmth and structure with textured stitches like bobbles, puffs, and cables. For  these items you want to think about washable yarns that can take a lot of wear and care.
Impressionist Sweater
from "Crochet Insider's
Passion for Fashion" 

If, however, you have in mind a sweater for indoor wear, I recommend looking at DK, sport or even fingering weight yarn.  Particularly if the pattern you are making is lace, it will be much more "legible"  if you use a thinner yarn.  The thinner lines of the yarn will give greater clarity to the lace stitch.   For the same reason, when working lace stitches, the yarn should be smooth, not textured, or the pattern will be difficult to see. Further, using a heavier weight yarn enlarges the scale of the pattern, often resulting in lace with really big holes, not so practical.  Who wants to get stuck on door knobs or cooking utensils?

Romantic Halter from
Inside Crochet magazine 
What's equally important when it comes to crochet wearables is the question of drape.  Drape is the quality of fabric that makes it move and flow gracefully around the body.  It's much easier to create drape in crochet with thinner yarns.  In fact, I like to think of fabric drape on a continuum, going from items that require a lot to those where you want the opposite, more structure.  Moving from structure to drape,  I would put things in this order:

Bag, Belt, Hat, Jacket, Scarf, Cardigan, Summer Top, Lace Shawl.

Uptown Sweater: from
"Custom Crocheted Sweaters" 
The more drape you want in an item, the easier it will be to achieve it with a finer yarn. There is nothing so gorgeous as a feathery light shawl in lace weight yarn!  Of course, it does require patience, but who says everything we make should be quick and easy?  I personally love digging into an intricate project, because I know how satisfied I'll be when it's done.  And I'm imagining all the lovely compliments I'll get when wearing it!

Aside from yarn weight, there are other things you can do to get more drape:  use open stitches, not closed. The more open is the lace, the more drape in the fabric.  Use taller stitches, not short (single crochet is not ideal for drape). Work in the back loop instead of both loops.  Lastly, choose a fiber that drapes well, for example, alpaca, silk, or bamboo.  Wools and cottons, generally don't drape as well, but depending on how the yarn is spun and treated, they can.  Acrylics like viscose can add to a yarn's drape. There are so many variables that can affect a yarn's performance that only broad generalizations can be made.  If you want to develop a feel for how yarns behave, hold a strand in your fingers and move it around, to see how pliable, or resistant, it is to movement. 
Bobble Hat by Dora Ohrenstein 

If, on the other hand, you want a more structured fabric for a bag or hat, you can do just the opposite.  Use heavier yarns with fibers like wool and cotton, that automatically lend more structure to the fabric. Use short stitches, or "fat" stitches that give the fabric more dimension, as mentioned earlier:  bobbles, puffs, and cables. Textured yarns are great for these kinds of items too.

Dolce Tote from
Crochet Today magazine 
What about when you are substituting one yarn for another when making a pattern?  Of course, you're apt to stick with the same yarn weight, but you may not realize that the fiber content is also important.  A sweater designed in a silk blend yarn is going to look and act very different from one made in wool, and vice versa.  Silk is slinky, wool much less so.  Take a close look at the design and see how much it relies on the slinkiness of the silk, or whether it will be fine without it. 

I hope these points will be useful for your future crochet adventures!

And once again, I leave you with Dora's tip of the day:

When working two stitches in sequence over a bunch of skipped stitches, the loop of the first stitch can get very large as you stretch over the space between. To avoid that, make the first stitch, then hold the work so that the place you need to insert for the second stitch is close to the first stitch, in other words, scrunch up the fabric as necessary.  Make the 2nd stitch, and tug a bit at the yarn after completing it.  Voila - no more big top loop!

Happy crocheting!
Dora 

All designs on this page by Dora Ohrenstein.
_________________

Dora Ohrenstein is an author, designer and writer whose most recent book is Custom Crocheted Sweaters: Make Garments that Really Fit.  Her website Crochetinsider.com  is a great source for articles, interviews and techniques, and where she teaches online crochet classes.

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Crochet Corner with Dora Ohrenstein- Vogue Knitting Crochet!

by : MarinadeDesigns

Designer: Vicki Hollingsworth
The crochet community is all abuzz!  What's all the excitement about?  The absolutely gorgeous 2012 Special Collector's Issue of Vogue Knitting Crochet!! OMG, the designs are so stunning.  Many favorite designers are represented, including Kathy Merrick (whose shawl graces the cover) Nicki Epstein, Mari Lynn Patrick, Robyn Chachula, Japanese designer Yoko Hatta, Lisa Daehlin, Cristina Mershon, Mary Beth Temple, Kristin Omdahl, Candi Jensen, and Shiri Mor.  I'm pleased as could be that my design is in there too, plus an article I wrote titled "Fine Finishing for Crocheted Sweaters."  Vogue styled and photographed the designs so beautifully, each one really shines. 
Designer: Nicky Epstein


I took this opportunity to ask Editoral Director Trisha Malcom about this issue and here's what she said:


DORA:  What made Vogue Knitting decide to do a crochet issue at this time?


Designer: Lisa
Daehlin
TRISHA: We've been wanting to do another crochet issue for several years. Our original crochet special issue, from 1994, is highly collectible and people still tell us all the time how much they love it. As crochet is really having a moment right now, in the fashion world as well as in the world of craft, we thought it was a great time to highlight it.


Designer: Kathy Merrick
DORA: What kind of crochet ideas/styles were you interested in presenting?  What kinds of proposals leaped out at you?


TRISHA: We wanted to showcase the many ways crochet can work. We wanted to show how crocheted fabric can drape and move, and how the stitches can be incorporated in a striking variety of ways. The proposals we loved were fresh and interesting, and gave us new ways to think about crocheted garments.

DORA: Do you think the perception of crochet is changing among yarn crafters?


Designer: Kristin
Omdahl
TRISHA: Absolutely. It's another skill set to have, an exciting new thing to try, and for many of us, something we know how to do but might want to explore in a more advanced way.


Designer: Robyn Chachula
DORA: Who do you think will be the audience for this issue -- dedicated crocheters, knitters curious about crochet?


TRISHA: We hope it will be all of the above! We hope to entice new crocheters, as well as challenge and inspire the experienced hookers.


DORA: Was your selection of yarns different than it is when you do a knitting publication?


Designer: Dora Ohrenstein
TRISHA: It was largely the same. We looked at how the yarns would work up into the proposed fabric and shape, and made what we thought were good matches between the material and the idea.


DORA: Do you think you'll do another crochet issue next year?  Or sooner?


Desginer: Shiri Mor
TRISHA: We'd love to. Stay tuned! 


Isn't that last bit great news?  To celebrate this "crochet moment" Trisha mentions, we are going to give away one issue of the magazine.  If you'd like to win, please post here and tell us why you love crochet. The deadline to enter is Sunday, May 13th at 11pm (PST). Jimmy Beans Wool will choose the winner randomly and we'll get your copy sent out right away! Check back on Monday, May 14th to see who won!


For those of you who missed it, the winner was announced in the Monday, May 14th Post.  


Thanks so much for reading and I hope you have a great weekend!

-Dora

PS. All photos are courtesy of Vogue Knitting.The Nicky Epstein photos were taken by Paul Amato for LVARepresents.com and the rest were taken by Rose Callahan.


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Crochet Corner with Dora Ohrenstein

by : MarinadeDesigns
Welcome to our new twice monthly Friday feature "Crochet Corner" with Dora Ohrenstein! We are so excited to have Dora working with us to bring all kinds of interesting and relevant crochet information to all of the crochet enthusiasts here at Jimmy Beans Wool. We hope you'll join us back here every other Friday in the "Crochet Corner" and please feel free to send feedback or crochet topic suggestions our way! Without further ado, we give you Dora Ohrenstein!


A Little Bit of History and Some Crochet Mythbusting


Stunning Irish Crochet
circa 1910 from
www.vintagetextile.com
We lovers of crochet find working with hook and yarn to be a very satisfying endeavor. We get all excited about discovering new techniques, trying a new stitch or project. We also turn to crochet because it's so calming to feel the rhythm of one's stitches, and feel the texture of yarn and hook working smoothly and harmoniously together, as a lovely fabric unfolds from our busy fingers. 

Irish Crochet wedding dress,
from the UK Knitting and
Crochet Guild's Collection.
The only less than marvelous thing about being a crocheter today is how often we still encounter certain myths and stereotypes about what crochet is and what it can do. Oh the pain of being told that crochet is too bulky for garments, only good for afghans, and not suitable for fine yarns and fibers. PUH-LEEZE!  Let's put all those myths to rest forever.

Look at the history of crochet, and how it was used. We really don't know when it was invented, but textile scholars have been unable to find any surviving samples nor any written references, older than mid 19th century. I find it quite plausible that crochet began at that time, though more basic slip stitching technique is probably far older. Knitting, on the other hand, has been around since medieval times, but crochet had a totally different origin.

Another item from the UK
 Knitting and Crochet
Guild Collection, a 1940's blouse. 
Capitalism in 19th century Europe gave birth to a rising middle class, and consequently more leisure time for women.  Needlework of all kinds was not only popular, but considered an essential skill for the marriageable young women, who was also expected too play the piano, dance, and sing, all ways to display cultivation and femininity. The ladylike arts included embroidery, tatting, macramé and a host of other crafts.

Modern Antimacassar (or doily)
made in Albania in 2006
Several highly skilled needle artists in Britain were responsible for popularizing crochet, among them Madame Riego de la Branchadiere, Cornelia Mee and Frances Lambert.  They published hundreds of crochet patterns, featuring, quite naturally, items that reflect the tastes and lifestyles of the Victorian home:  shawls and hats, lace collars and antimacassars. Now what exactly is an antimacassar, you may well ask. Macassar is a place in Indonesia where a certain type of oil was produced that men could use to manage their hair. The antimacassar was placed on the upper part of a chair to keep the oil off the furniture. Artful lacy antimacassars were a sort of precursor to the doily. All the crochet done at this time used very fine cotton or linen -- to see this work today is to be amazed at the delicacy and expertise mastered by Victorian hobbyists!

1975 design by Lillian
Bailey published in
Design Crochet,
edited by Mark Dittrick
So, just how and when did crochet become associated with clunky and bulky? Even as late as 1960's, gorgeous crochet lace and chic garments were being published in magazines. Yet, at that time, one hundred years after the Victorian explosion of needle arts, most women found themselves with less time than ever. Having it all - a job and family -- meant having very little time for anything else. Many women could not take up hobbies until their nests were empty. If there was some time for knitting or crochet, it was scarce. In response, yarn companies began to focus on heavier weight yarns, which crafters could work up into projects quickly and easily.

The problem is, crochet with bulky weight yarns can produce some very useful items, but may not be the most refined way to show off the craft. The beauty of crochet is really showcased with thinner yarns. The finer yarn you use, the more elegant your crochet can be.

Beau Blazer from "Custom
Crocheted Sweaters" by
Dora Ohrenstein
I don't mean to suggest that bulky yarns have no place in crochet world - oh no! There is nothing I'd rather wear on a cold day than a snug crochet hat made of worsted or bulky yarn! But, I do believe that the few decades where most crochet projects were shown in heavier yarns may have led to this misperception of crochet and all of its marvelous possibilities.

Thank goodness, we have so much more to choose from today!  A browse through the pages of this site yields a veritable feast of yarns in a vast array of weights and fibers.  Today's great designers, like Doris Chan, Kristen Omdahl and many more whose names are less well known, show how glorious crochet can be. The times they are a-changing, and that makes me so glad to be part of the new world of crochet!

We'll be busting a few more crochet myths in the weeks ahead. In the meantime, let me leave you with my crochet tip of the day:

DORA's TIP OF THE DAY:  Often I hear this dilemma when it comes to gauge: "I can match stitch gauge, but my row gauge is too small."  Here's what to do: make your stitches taller by drawing up the first loop of the stitch to the height of 1/2".  This is especially true for double crochet stitches, but will also work for any stitch - give it a try and you'll see what I mean!

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Dora Ohrenstein is an author, designer and writer whose most recent book is CustomCrocheted Sweaters: Make Garments that Really Fit. Her website Crochetinsider.com is a great source for articles, interviews and techniques, and she teaches online crochet classes there too.

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