Showing posts with label crochet history. Show all posts
Showing posts with label crochet history. Show all posts

Dora's Crochet Corner...and the Capitol Knits Giveaway Winner!

by : MarinadeDesigns
Antique Crochet Sampler,
date Unknown

Are you curious about how old crochet is, when it started, and how it spread throughout the world?  If so, you may be disappointed to learn that there is very little reliable information available on these topics.  Why?  Quite simply, because crochet has not been considered a worthy topic of study for scholars. The history of knitting has fared only slightly better. 

Antique Crochet Sampler,
date Unknown
A bibliography of crochet studies doesn't exist, beyond actual pattern books published in Western Europe in the 19th century, beginning in the 1840s.  You can find some of these, available for free download, at www.antiquepatternlibrary.com.  While they are undoubtedly a great resource, they shed light only on crochet from a limited era, and one culture.  

Here to rectify the situation, on behalf of both crochet and knitting, is Karen  Kendrick-Hands, who is chairing a symposium this November, with the purpose of bringing together both experts and enthusiasts. There will be lectures and panels to explore and brainstorm about the possibility of establishing a museum and research center devoted to knitting and crochet history.

"New Stitches" from Ladies
Home Journal, 1906
Kendrick-Hands received a grant from TNNA's Yarn Group to support the symposium, which is also being co-hosted by the Wisconsin Historical Society.  I met Karen last week at a conference of the Textile Society of America in Washington D.C.  She explained to me the immensity of the task of creating such an institution, and also its urgency.  A Knitting and Crochet Heritage Museum will greatly enhance the perception of these needle arts, raising them to the status of legitimate topics of study.  Further, it can be an instrument that assists in evaluating the many neglected and mislabeled heirlooms that currently lurk in many American museums.

Slipped Stitches from
Tajikistan, date Unknown
Just imagine what it would be like if a website existed with examples of historical crochet not only from Western Europe and the US, but from Turkey, Peru, China, Japan, and all the other places where crochet is done.  Imagine as well that each object had been analyzed by experts, and includes a description of the materials used, the techniques and style of the crochet, and its date.  Perhaps there could also be papers exploring the relationships between crocheted objects, showing how techniques have been adapted and changed as they move through different regions and cultures.  And even more exciting, imagine a physical space, somewhere in the US, housing an awesome a collection of beautiful, historic, crocheted objects of craft and art.

Italian Motif book,
Early 20th Century
My favorite fantasy of this kind:  a sweet lady comes to Antiques Roadshow with a lovely blanket that's been in her family for generations.  The appraiser studies it closely, realized it is crochet, and tells her that due to the fine work and condition of the piece, it's worth, far from the usual $10 or 20 such an object might fetch at a flea market, is ten times that amount!  

Think this could never happen?  Have you seen appraisals of 18th century embroidery on that program? Often they are evaluated at many thousands of dollars, because embroidery is a highly respected craft with a well documented history. That makes it collectible, which in turn gives it monetary value.  It's that simple folks!  So, if you care and want to be involved, consider attending the conference, which takes place November 8 - 10, 2012 in Madison Wisconsin. Check out these links for further information.
http://www.regonline.com/knittingheritagemuseumaworkinprogress
http://knittingheritagemuseum.wordpress.com

If you'd like to read more about the history of crochet, here are some links to articles at Crochet insider.
http://crochetinsider.com/article/ancient-fibers
http://crochetinsider.com/article/unkown-history-italian-irish-crochet-lace-0
http://crochetinsider.com/article/carpet-jourabs

Thanks so much for reading and happy crocheting!
Dora 

PS. Courtesy of Random.org, the winner of Capitol Knits by Tanis Gray is: 

 Commenter #15- Debby, who said, "The Lincoln cardi and the Constitution Hall Scarf would be my first choices. The shawls are gorgeous too and I'd probably get to those next. Thanks for the chance to win this wonderful book."

 Debby, please shoot me an e-mail with your shipping address and I'll pop the book in the mail to you right away! It's Kristen (at) jimmybeanswool (dot) com. 

 Thanks so much to everyone who commented!


-Kristen
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Crochet Corner with Dora Ohrenstein

by : MarinadeDesigns
Welcome to our new twice monthly Friday feature "Crochet Corner" with Dora Ohrenstein! We are so excited to have Dora working with us to bring all kinds of interesting and relevant crochet information to all of the crochet enthusiasts here at Jimmy Beans Wool. We hope you'll join us back here every other Friday in the "Crochet Corner" and please feel free to send feedback or crochet topic suggestions our way! Without further ado, we give you Dora Ohrenstein!


A Little Bit of History and Some Crochet Mythbusting


Stunning Irish Crochet
circa 1910 from
www.vintagetextile.com
We lovers of crochet find working with hook and yarn to be a very satisfying endeavor. We get all excited about discovering new techniques, trying a new stitch or project. We also turn to crochet because it's so calming to feel the rhythm of one's stitches, and feel the texture of yarn and hook working smoothly and harmoniously together, as a lovely fabric unfolds from our busy fingers. 

Irish Crochet wedding dress,
from the UK Knitting and
Crochet Guild's Collection.
The only less than marvelous thing about being a crocheter today is how often we still encounter certain myths and stereotypes about what crochet is and what it can do. Oh the pain of being told that crochet is too bulky for garments, only good for afghans, and not suitable for fine yarns and fibers. PUH-LEEZE!  Let's put all those myths to rest forever.

Look at the history of crochet, and how it was used. We really don't know when it was invented, but textile scholars have been unable to find any surviving samples nor any written references, older than mid 19th century. I find it quite plausible that crochet began at that time, though more basic slip stitching technique is probably far older. Knitting, on the other hand, has been around since medieval times, but crochet had a totally different origin.

Another item from the UK
 Knitting and Crochet
Guild Collection, a 1940's blouse. 
Capitalism in 19th century Europe gave birth to a rising middle class, and consequently more leisure time for women.  Needlework of all kinds was not only popular, but considered an essential skill for the marriageable young women, who was also expected too play the piano, dance, and sing, all ways to display cultivation and femininity. The ladylike arts included embroidery, tatting, macramé and a host of other crafts.

Modern Antimacassar (or doily)
made in Albania in 2006
Several highly skilled needle artists in Britain were responsible for popularizing crochet, among them Madame Riego de la Branchadiere, Cornelia Mee and Frances Lambert.  They published hundreds of crochet patterns, featuring, quite naturally, items that reflect the tastes and lifestyles of the Victorian home:  shawls and hats, lace collars and antimacassars. Now what exactly is an antimacassar, you may well ask. Macassar is a place in Indonesia where a certain type of oil was produced that men could use to manage their hair. The antimacassar was placed on the upper part of a chair to keep the oil off the furniture. Artful lacy antimacassars were a sort of precursor to the doily. All the crochet done at this time used very fine cotton or linen -- to see this work today is to be amazed at the delicacy and expertise mastered by Victorian hobbyists!

1975 design by Lillian
Bailey published in
Design Crochet,
edited by Mark Dittrick
So, just how and when did crochet become associated with clunky and bulky? Even as late as 1960's, gorgeous crochet lace and chic garments were being published in magazines. Yet, at that time, one hundred years after the Victorian explosion of needle arts, most women found themselves with less time than ever. Having it all - a job and family -- meant having very little time for anything else. Many women could not take up hobbies until their nests were empty. If there was some time for knitting or crochet, it was scarce. In response, yarn companies began to focus on heavier weight yarns, which crafters could work up into projects quickly and easily.

The problem is, crochet with bulky weight yarns can produce some very useful items, but may not be the most refined way to show off the craft. The beauty of crochet is really showcased with thinner yarns. The finer yarn you use, the more elegant your crochet can be.

Beau Blazer from "Custom
Crocheted Sweaters" by
Dora Ohrenstein
I don't mean to suggest that bulky yarns have no place in crochet world - oh no! There is nothing I'd rather wear on a cold day than a snug crochet hat made of worsted or bulky yarn! But, I do believe that the few decades where most crochet projects were shown in heavier yarns may have led to this misperception of crochet and all of its marvelous possibilities.

Thank goodness, we have so much more to choose from today!  A browse through the pages of this site yields a veritable feast of yarns in a vast array of weights and fibers.  Today's great designers, like Doris Chan, Kristen Omdahl and many more whose names are less well known, show how glorious crochet can be. The times they are a-changing, and that makes me so glad to be part of the new world of crochet!

We'll be busting a few more crochet myths in the weeks ahead. In the meantime, let me leave you with my crochet tip of the day:

DORA's TIP OF THE DAY:  Often I hear this dilemma when it comes to gauge: "I can match stitch gauge, but my row gauge is too small."  Here's what to do: make your stitches taller by drawing up the first loop of the stitch to the height of 1/2".  This is especially true for double crochet stitches, but will also work for any stitch - give it a try and you'll see what I mean!

_________________________

Dora Ohrenstein is an author, designer and writer whose most recent book is CustomCrocheted Sweaters: Make Garments that Really Fit. Her website Crochetinsider.com is a great source for articles, interviews and techniques, and she teaches online crochet classes there too.

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