It's the final week of the Royal Baby Sew Along!  I hope that you're excited to finish up.  By this point, you should have your quilt top assembled and have the batting of your choice ready to go.

We'll start this week with the last detail of the quilt top: the crown!  The crown is done with bias tape edging over a background fabric, and the points of the crown are done with the shiny scraps of Plymouth's Gold Rush yarn.  To get started, you'll need to download and print out the pdf of the crown outline.  You can find the pdf at the following link:

www.jimmybeanswool.com/royalBaby/crown

One of the circle tops is cut off in our pdf, but don't worry: you don't really need the outline for that part!

Once you have the pdf printed, you'll need to cut it out.  You can either cut out the circles at the top of each point of the crown or just lop them off after the crown point; it doesn't matter since that part won't be done with the template anyhow.  You don't need to worry about cutting out the insides of the template right now. 

Take the outline of the crown that you just cut out and lay it on top of the fabric for the crown background.  If you bought a kit from us, the background fabric is a fat quarter of the Kaffe Fassett Shot Cotton in Sunshine, a nice bright yellow fit for a crown!  If you didn't purchase a kit from us, you'll need a fat quarter of the fabric of your choosing.  Trace the edges of the crown outline onto the background fabric.  Then, cut it out, but you'll want to leave a 1/4” around the line that you traced when you cut it out.  Don't worry too much about making sure that's its a perfect 1/4” around the edge in all places.  Just don't leave less than ¼”, but as long as you have room to sew, it will be fine! 

Now you have a piece of background fabric in the shape of the crown, but slightly bigger than the outline you printed.  That's because we're going to sew it and flip it inside out so that the edge isn't raw; that extra 1/4” you left around the outside edge will end up as the seam allowance. 

You can do the this next part with either a see through fabric like a muslin or white cotton or with fusible interfacing.  We prefer the fusible interfacing method because we think it's easier, but it's up to you.  If you have scrap transparent fabric handy, go for it!  First lay the crown-shaped background fabric on your work surface, with the right side facing you.   Then lay your transparent fabric or fusible interfacing on top.  If you're using fusible interfacing, you'll want the sticky side facing down.  If you're using plain old fabric, it doesn't really matter if it's right side facing or not since you won't see it anyway!

The reason we're using transparent fabric or fusible interfacing is that you should still be able to see the line of the crown shape that you traced earlier through the fabric that's on top.   If you can't see it, take the time to trace it darker and then put your layers back together.  Now sew the transparent fabric/fusible interfacing and the crown background together along that traced line.  Trim the excess transparent fabric/fusible interfacing away from the sewn edge, still leaving about 1/4” of fabric.

Next, we're going to cut a slit into the transparent fabric/fusible interfacing ONLY so that you can flip the crown right side out.   Make sure that you only cut into the fusible/fabric.  You can pinch it to pull it up from the background fabric if you need before making the slit.  Then, turn the crown right-side out.  You might use an awl or crease turner to get all the edges turned out.  

If you used scrap, transparent fabric, you'll need to position the crown so that it's centered over the point where all Block D blocks come together, pin it down and then top stitch around the edge just like you would do for a raw edge applique. 

If you used fusible interfacing, all you need to do is position the crown as above, iron it down, and then top stitch around the edge. We like the fusible option because it doesn't require us to pin it in place.  Your fabric will stick where you iron it!

Ok, we've got the background in place so it's time to move on to the bias tape edging!  I know that you are all pros by now at making bias tape through your preferred method after last week's fun with bias tape.  This week, though, it really does matter that your tape is true 'bias tape,' meaning that the strips were cut on the bias and not with with the grain of your fabric.  The reason for needing the strips to be cut on the bias is that when they're cut on the bias, they're more stretchy, which will help with laying them out to follow the curvy shape of the crown.

If you purchased a kit from us, you'll find a 1/3 yd piece of Kaffe Fassett Shot Cotton in Curry (the same color you used for the stripes for Block D).  If you didn't buy a kit from us, you'll need 1/3 of a yard to get enough bias strips.  Cut 1” wide strips on a 45 degree angle. 

We'll take you through cutting on a 45 degree angle since it can throw people off at first.  You'll first want to find the line on your cutting grid that is marked 45 degrees.  We're demonstrating on our 6.5” by 24.5” Creative Grid ruler because it's handy, but almost every cutting grid and mat has a marked 45 degree angle.  Have you found yours?  Excellent!

Now line up the raw edge of your fabric along that black line that marks a 45 degree angle. This makes the straight edge of your ruler lined up to cut a 45 degree angle.

45 degree angle

Then, cut along that straight edge.

45 degree cut

(In our photo, I'm drawing a line with highlighter on paper, but you'd be cutting with your rotary cutter on the fabric)

Then, slide your ruler over so that the 1” line is along the cut you just made, and cut along the straight edge of the ruler again. 

Slide ruler over 1"

Cut strips

Keep moving your ruler over 1 inch to cut multiple strips until you run out of fabric.

Cut multiple strips

We you run out of fabric on one side, turn it over and keep cutting strips from the other side until your fabric is all 1 inch strips. 

Cut all the strips

Since you cut at a 45 degree angle, the bottom of your strips will be angled.  Go ahead and square those up.  

Here you have a choice for how to proceed.  You can sew all your strips together and make one long piece of bias tape and cut it again where you need it when you're placing it on the crown.  Or, you can make smaller pieces of bias tape and use the small pieces on the small portions and sew a bigger piece only when you need to.  It's up to you!  Either way, make some bias tape with your preferred method.  If you need a review, check out last week's instructions on how to make bias tape.

Once you have all the bias tape made, it's time to start laying it out on the crown detail.  You're going to want to start with the inside details of the crown.  We're starting here so that the raw edges of those strips will get covered when we go around the outside of the crown.  That way, the raw edges aren't exposed.  As for how to lay out the details on the inside of the crown, Gus winged it.  So, feel free to wing yours, too!  If you want to make yours exactly like Gus's, you can cut out the inside of the crown template that you cut out earlier.  Then, trace the lines on your fabric with an erasable pen or pencil, and lay out your bias strips according to those lines.

If you are using fusible bias tape, you can iron after placing each group of pieces and then sew the whole group down.  If you are using traditional bias tape, you'll need to pin and sew each piece individually before moving on to the next one.  Because Gus is extraordinary, he wanted his stitches on the top of the crown to match exactly so he used a double needle.  If you choose to follow in his footsteps and have a double needle handy, you'll need to thread both needles from a different spool and go on either side of your tension gauge (the two different strands can't both go through it).  Then, thread through both needles.  Note that your double needle must match the sewing plate on your machine or it won't work—you'll break the needles!  If you're plain Jane, like me, or you just aren't all that concerned about perfection, you can just sew down the edges of your bias strip however you like, knowing that the stitches likely won't match.   Don't simply sew down the middle of the bias strip or the bias edges will come loose in time.

Once you have the curved inside pieces of the crown done in bias tape (and sewn in place), it's time to do the curved line that runs through the center of the crown.  Again, pin and sew if you are using traditional bias tape or iron and sew if using fusible.

Now for the fun part,  you're going to need a pretty long piece of bias tape to go around the outside of the crown.  So, if you didn't sew your smaller strips together before, you'll probably need to now.   Starting in the top left corner of the crown, place bias tape all around the crown.  Pin or iron it down as you go to keep the bias tape in place.  As you come to the bottom left and bottom right corners, you'll want to fold the edges as you change direction  to keep the edges smooth.  Then, continue up to the top right of the crown.  If you have enough bias tape left on your long strip, you can keep going back to the top left, where you started.  If you don't have quite enough to make it all the way back across the stop, you can cut your bias tape at the top right and use a new piece to do the top of the crown.  Basically, you'll only want raw edges at the top corners of the crown and you'll want folded corners at the bottom.  That is because the tops ones will be covered by the yarn so you won't see the raw edges, but the bottom ones won't be covered so you want them to be smooth. 

So now that you've got the bias tape on the crown outline, all that is left to do for the crown is add the yarn baubles to the top of the points.  You'll find some Plymouth Gold Rush in your kit if you got it from us to make the baubles with.  If you didn't get a kit from us, you'll want to find some sparkle-tastic  yarn to really make the crown pop.  You can make the baubles as big as you want.  Eyeball how big you'd like them to be and then take the end of the yarn and pin it in the center of the circle you're envisioning.  Then coil the yarn around until it covers the raw edge of your applique for the crown.  Cut the yarn and pin the other end in place.  Then sew over the circles with invisible thread.  Remove your pins and make sure that then ends are securely sewn in place so that the bauble doesn't unravel.  Repeat for the other baubles on the crown. 

Your quilt top is officially done!  How does it feel?  Pretty good, right?  Go ahead and bask in its glory for a moment.  All that's left to be done is quilt as desired and bind the quilt.  We're pretty sure that you already know how to do that, but if not, here are some great blogs that we've found really helpful to get you on the right track:

Quilting:

Sew 4 Home:

http://www.sew4home.com/tips-resources/sewing-tips-tricks/quilt-basics-quilting-quilt-part-5-5

Diary of a Quilter:

http://www.diaryofaquilter.com/2010/10/machine-quilting-scrap-winner-and-super.html

Binding:

Sew 4 Home:

http://www.sew4home.com/tips-resources/sewing-tips-tricks/complete-step-step-binding-quilts-throws

Heather Bailey

http://www.heatherbaileydesign.com/HB_QuiltBinding.pdf

Sew Mama Sew:

http://www.sewmamasew.com/2013/01/machine-quilt-binding-tutorial/

Welcome back to the Royal Baby Sew Along!  Now that you've got all 16 blocks that you'll need to make the quilt, we'll show you how to assemble the quilt top and add the bias tape details. 

You're going to first want to lay out your blocks like they will be in the quilt top.  Make sure you have plenty of space!

Once you have the blocks laid out in their correct positions, you're going to want to ensure that the stripes within each block are oriented correctly.  Use the following to diagram to help you.   If you're blocks are laid out correctly, there should be a continuous line around the outside of the quilt and the stripes should point inward.  Also, each Block C's stripes should be visually continued by Block D's stripes in the middle of the quilt.

If you are concerned about the appearance of the shot cottons all being the same, pay extra attention to the way that you have each Block A laid out.  Since the warp and the weft of the shot cottons are different colors, the way that you orient the block will show off one color more than another.  With the other blocks, you don't really have a choice about how it's laid out (matching up the stripes forces each block into position), but with Block A you can rotate it 90 degrees and the stripes will all still match up.  If, like me, you aren't too concerned about them matching, you can always wing it and leave it to chance.

Have you got it all laid out to your liking?  Good!  Let's get sewing! 

 As you sew, be sure to line up the seams and take extra care to keep the seams together so that the stripes don't jog from one block to the next.  Pin them if needed while you sew.  If they're not exactly right, we have a fix to hide most of them so they aren't noticeable!

Step 1: We're going to start by sewing the blocks from Columns 1 and 2 together by rows. So, grab Block A and Block C from Row 1 and sew them together.  Make sure that as you grab blocks to sew together that you keep them oriented correctly so that the stripes line up like they are supposed to!  Continue by sewing Block B and Block D from Row 2 together, Block C and Block D together from Row 3 and Block A and Block B together from Row 4. 

You can either press the seams open or to one side.  Personally, I like to press them to the side and alternate between rows so that Row 1 is pressed to the left, Row 2 is pressed to the right, and so on.  I find this helpful when it's time to sew the rows together because I can lock those seams together by fitting one seam right next to the other and it helps them not move as much when I'm sewing, which keeps the seams lined up.

 Step 2: Next, we'll sew the blocks from Column 3 onto their appropriate rows.  Again, be sure to keep the blocks oriented the right way as you grab them to sew them onto the rows you've already completed!  This is the spot in the quilt top that the seams between blocks won't be hidden, so take extra care to line them up and pin if needed.  Sew Block B from Row 1 to the other side of Block C from row 1.  Continue by sewing Block D and from Row 2 to the other side of Block D from Row 2, Block D from row 3 to the other side of Block D from Row 3, and Block C from Row 4 to the other side of Block B from row 4.  Press the seams however you like. 

Step 3: Now we'll need to sew the blocks from column 4 onto their appropriate rows.  So, grab Block A from row 1 and sew it to the other side of Block B from row 1.  Then continue in this fashion by sewing Block C from row 2 to the other side of block D from row 2, sew Block B from row 3 to the other side of Block D from row 3, and finally sew Block A from row 4 to the other side of Block C from row 4.

Let's just take a moment and appreciate that the rows are done! Hurray! 

Step 4: All that's left is to sew the rows together, taking extra care to make sure that the seams line up.  Sew Row 1 to Row 2. 

Step 5: Then Sew Row 3 to the other side of Row 2, taking extra care to make sure that the seams line up since this is one of the seams that is not hidden by our bias tape cheat. 

Step 6: Then sew Row 4 to the other side of Row 3.

La Voila!

Okay, so we've mentioned a detail in our quilt top that hides the seams in case yours don't come to perfect 90 degree angles and your stripes don't match up exactly from one block to the next.  Of course, even if your blocks match up perfectly (like Gus's quilt!), you may want to include the bias detailing since it really enhances the tartan plaid effect of the quilt top and helps to tie all the blocks together visually. 

In your quilt kit, (or on its way to you since we had you cut it to complete the stripes for Block C), you'll find a piece of Kaffe Fassett's Caterpillar Stripe fabric in Earth (the same one you used for the stripes from Block C), that measures 6” by the width of the fabric.  If you didn't buy a kit from us, you'll need 1/4 yard of fabric to make the bias strips for the quilt top.  You'll need 4 strips of 1/4” bias tape that are 40” long.  We didn't fuss with making them 40” long; we just made them the width of the fabric, sewed them on and then chopped off the extra.  It's up to you!

There are two ways to make bias tape: the traditional way and the gadgety way.  We'll walk you through both methods.  Either way you choose, you'll need to start by cutting your fabric into strips that are 1/2” wide by the length of the fabric (about 42”).  You'll need 4 of them. 

Note that we are using the term 'bias tape' loosely.  For this project, the strips don't need to be cut on the bias; cutting them with the grain of the fabric will do just fine. 

For the traditional method, you'll start with one of your strips with the wrong side facing you (and the right side down on your workspace).  Fold each of the sides of the fabric.   

Iron it so that it stays that way and that's it!  You'll need to make 4 of these bias tape strips.  The next step is to place it on the quilt and sew it in place, which we'll show you after we go through the gadgety way to make bias tape.

Since it can be really hard to fold consistently down a strip that long (not to mention getting the strip to stay perfectly in place while you sew), there is also a way to make fusible bias tape that is a consistent size and has the added benefit of being able to fuse it lightly to your quilt top so that it stays where you want it while you sew.  If you use this method, be sure that you fuse it where you want it since it can't be pretty tough to remove once you've fused it. 

For this method, you'll need a 1/4” fusible bias tape maker (we use the one from Clover) and some fusible web made for that bias tape maker.  There are instructions that come with the fusible bias tape maker, but we'll repeat them here so that you have them all in one place.  You just insert the fusible web into the upper groove of the bias tape maker with the adhesive side down.  Insert your bias strip fabric into the lower groove and pull the bias strip fabric and the fusible web through the maker.  You can use an awl to get it started so that you can pull it through.  While you pull it through the bias tape maker, it fold your ends over for you and attach the adhesive fusible web.  Once the fabric has passed through the bias tape maker, iron the webbing in place.  Once you've made the whole strip, you just peel off the backer of the fusible web and stick it where you want it.  Then all that's left is to sew it into place!

Fusible maker link: http://www.jimmybeanswool.com/knitting/yarn/Clover/FusibleBiasTapeMaker.asp?showLarge=true&specPCVID=48027

Fusible web link:

http://www.jimmybeanswool.com/knitting/yarn/Clover/FusibleWeb.asp?showLarge=true&specPCVID=48028

We attached our bias tape along the seam between Column 1 and 2, and another piece between Column  3 and 4.  That way, it hides a lot of our seams so you can't see if they don't match.  Top stitch them into place, using a thread that complements the overall look of the quilt. 

Once those are in place, attach bias tape between Rows 1 and 2 and another strip between Rows 3 and 4.  Again, top stitch them into place. 

Now, just sit back and admire your beautiful quilt top! 

Your homework for next week is to acquire the batting of your choice.  You'll need a piece that is at least 2-4 inches larger than your quilt top on each side.  So, if your quilt top measures 40” by 40” right now, you'll need a piece of batting that is 44-48” square.  Check out our selection of Warm & Natural precut batting if you're at a loss for what to use. 

Warm and Natural link:

http://www.jimmybeanswool.com/knitting/yarn/WarmCompany/BattingWarmNatural.asp?showLarge=true&specPCVID=39473

Next week we'll show you how to make the crown applique detail and give you some ideas for quilting.  We hope to see you then!

Happy Sewing!

Gus and Jenn

Hi, Everybody!

The Royal Baby is here!  Good thing we're on to the last block in the Royal Baby Sew Along.  Last week, we showed you how to make the 4 Block C blocks for this quilt (phew, aren't you glad those are done?).  Now, it's on to Block D, the last block of the quilt and an easy peasy design to boot!

    

The first thing you'll need to do is cut the pieces for Block D  If you purchased a kit from us (which includes all the fabric you need for the quilt top, binding, and backing!), you'll find a piece of purple Shot Cotton that measures 13” by 44” and a 13.5” by 22” piece of  Shot Cotton in the color Curry.  These are the pieces that you'll need to make Block D.  If you didn't purchase a kit from us, you'll need a 1/3 yd piece of fabric for the background of the block and a fat quarter for the stripes. 

For each Block D (there are 4 total in the quilt), you will need:

 -  2 blocks DA 1-1/2” by 11”

 - 2 blocks  DB 3-1/4” by 11”

 - 3 strips DC 1.5” by 11”

Each cut gives you a 1/4” seam allowance on the pieced edges and a 1/2” allowance on the outside edges to assist with squaring up the finished block.

Make your cuts according to these diagrams so that you get the most of your piece of fabric!

To cut your blocks:

To cut the stripes:

Now that we have all the pieces cut, it's time to assemble them!  We recommend that after you cut all your fabrics, you lay them in stacks and label one of each cut in separate piles so that you can keep them all organized. 

Take your first DA square and sew it to a DC fabric strip, using a ¼ inch seam.  All seams should be ¼ inch throughout the this project. As with the previous blocks, you can chain all 8 DA/DC combos or you can make only the 2 that you'll need for one block and then repeat all the steps to make the other blocks.  When you've finished, you can either press your seams open or to either side.  It's up to you!

  

Now that you have a DA/DC combo, sew a DB strip to the other side. You'll need 2 of these for one block or you can complete all 8 if you are chaining your pieces.  We recommend that you press towards the DB strip.

All that's left to do is to sew these combos to either side of the last loose DC strip.  Press towards the combos.

Piece of cake compared to last week!  Repeat these steps so that you have 4 blocks for this design. 

If your blocks aren't quite square, you should square them up to 10-1/2”.   With the sizes of the squares and strips that we cut, we left an extra 1/4” around the outside of the block to help you square it up to the needed size. The finished block will be 10” by 10”.  The extra 1/2” is the seam allowance on each side for sewing the blocks together!

Now that all the blocks are done, next week we'll be moving on to bias details and finishing touches!

**Please note that if you bought the kit from us, you may have noticed that there was not enough fabric in the kit to cut all of the pieces.  Please contact us (fabric@jimmybeanswool.com or 877-529-5648) so that we can send you an fat quarter to complete your project.  Thanks so much for bringing this to our attention!**

Happy Quilting,

Gus and Jenn

Welcome back to the Royal Baby Sew-a-long. Last week, we showed you how to make the four "Block B" blocks for this quilt. This week, we'll pick up where we left off-- with Block C!

The first thing you'll need to do is cut the pieces for Block C. If you purchased a kit from us (which includes all the fabric you need for the quilt top, binding, and backing!), you'll find a piece of scarlet Shot Cotton that measures 24” by 22” and a 13.5” by 14” piece of Woven Stripes in Earth. These are the pieces that you'll need to make Block C. If you didn't purchase a kit from us, you'll need a 2/3 yd piece of fabric for the background of the block and a fat quarter for the stripes. 

For each Block C (there are 4 total in the quilt), you will need:

 - 4 blocks CA 1-1/2” by 5-1/4”

 - 4 blocks CB 3-1/4” by 5-1/4”

 - 3 strips CC 1-1/2” by 11”

 - 2 strips CD 1-1/2” by 1-1/2”

 - 2 strips CE 1.5” by 3-1/4”

Each cut gives you a 1/4” seam allowance on the pieced edges and a 1/2” allowance on the outside edges to assist with squaring up the finished block.

Make your cuts according to these diagrams so that you get the most of your piece of fabric!

To cut your blocks:

To cut the stripes:

Now that we have all the pieces cut, it's time to assemble them! We recommend that after you cut all your fabrics, you lay them in stacks and label one of each cut in separate piles so that you can keep them all organized. 

Step 1: Take your first CA square and sew it to a CD fabric strip, using a ¼ inch seam. All seams should be ¼ inch throughout the this project. As with the previous blocks, you can chain all 8 CA/CD combos or you can make only the 2 that you'll need for one block and then repeat all the steps to make the other blocks. 

This will be the top left side of the complete C block. As with the previous blocks, you can chain all 8 CA/CD combos or you can make only the 2 that you'll need for one block and then repeat all the steps to make the other blocks. Whatever you choose, press the seams toward the CA square when you've finished sewing the CA squares and CD strips together. 

Step 2: Then, take the remaining CA squares and sew them to the other side of the CA/CD combo. You'll need 2 CA/CD/CA combos to make one block or you can chain all 8 strips. Press towards the CA square.

Step 3: Now, Take a CB strip and sew it to a CE strip. Make one more CB/CE combo if you are making one block at a time or make a total of 8 if you are chaining your pieces. Press towards the CB square.

Step 4: Then, take the remaining CB squares and sew them to the other side of the CB/CE combo.  You'll need 2 CB/CE/CB combos to make one block or you can chain all 8 strips. Press towards the CB square.

Step 5: Take your CA/CD/CA strip and sew it to a CC strip. Again, you'll need two of these right away to finish one block or you can chain all 8 that you'll need to do all 4 blocks. Press toward the CC strip.

Step 6: I'm sure you can see where we're heading with this: take your other CB/CE/CB combo and sew a loose CC strip to it.  Press toward the CC strip.

Step 7: We're almost there, I promise! Sew the other loose CB/CE/CB combo to the other side of the strip you just sewed. Press toward the CC strip. 

All that's left to be done is to sew the CC side of the CA/CD/CA combos to each edge of the piece you just put together. 

Voila!

If you sew a little wonky (like I do!), you might have a block that isn't entirely square. With the sizes of the squares and strips that we cut, we left an extra 1/4” around the outside of the block to help you square it up to the needed size.  You need a block that is 10-1/2” by 10-1/2”. The finished block will be 10” by 10”. The extra 1/2” is the seam allowance on each side for sewing the blocks together!

Repeat these steps so that you have 4 blocks for this design. Now that you have this one done, next week's Block D will be a piece of cake!

**Also, please note, you may have noticed that we messed up! We are SO sorry for our typo the last two weeks! We originally posted that you are to square-up your blocks to 10- 1/4" x 10-1/4" but we meant for you to actually size them to 10-1/2"x10-1/2". If you've already done your initial squares to 10-1/4"x10-1/4", no worries! Continue to use that size for the remainder of your quilt. It will not affect the overall size by much at all and your result will still look the same as the original. If we've caught you before you've cut down your squares, be sure to make note of the changes. We'll be correcting the PDF's shortly. Again, we apologize profusely for the typo!**

For a PDF printable version of this pattern, please be sure to check out the Royal Baby Quilt SAL super special secret page on our website. We'll be adding Block C shortly! :)